How to Train Your Dog to Respond to a Call
In a peaceful, indoor environment, begin training a recall (come when called).
Sit with your pet and say "come" or his name.
Give your puppy a reward each time you say "come/name." He hasn't done anything yet! Simply repeat the word and reward with a treat. Easy!
Place a treat on the floor near you next. Say your puppy's name again as soon as he finishes the reward on the ground. Give him another goodie when he raises his head.
Rep this process a few times until you can toss the treat a little further away and he turns around to face you when you mention his name. Note: Saying your puppy's name too many times when he doesn't answer encourages him to ignore it. Rather, Bring your puppy closer to you and return to the point where he can reply to his name correctly the first time.
Begin adding movement and making the game more fun once your dog can turn around to face you. Toss a reward on the ground and step back while calling your puppy's name. They should hunt you down since it's enjoyable to chase!
They should chase you because it's enjoyable to chase! Give them lots of praise, treats, or a tug toy if they catch you. Visiting you should be enjoyable! Expand these games to further distances and new locations. Keep your dog on a long leash when training outside (always in a safe, enclosed location)
Don't reach out and grasp your dog when he approaches you. For some dogs, this can be perplexing or terrifying. Kneel and face your dog sideways while reaching for the collar if he is fearful. Never use the word "punishment" to describe your dog's behaviour. This will simply educate him to avoid you since you are unpredictable. Even if your dog has been up to trouble, lavish praise on him or her for answering to his or her name.
How to Teach a Dog to Walk Off-Leash
"Heel" refers to the dog walking on your left side with his head even with your knee as you hold the leash lightly in competition obedience training. The goal of puppy training is for them to walk politely on a loose leash without pulling. When teaching this simple walking technique, some trainers choose to say "let's go" or "forward" rather than "heel."
Whatever cue you choose, be consistent and use the same word every time. It is entirely up to you whether your puppy walks on your left or right side. However, be consistent about where you want them to go so they don't get confused and start zigzagging in front of you.
First, make sure your puppy is at ease with being on a leash. At first, it may feel strange, and some puppies may bite the leash. Every time you put the leash on your puppy, give him a treat.
Then, while holding the leash in a loose loop, stand next to your puppy and give him several treats in a row for standing or sitting next to your leg.
Take a step forward and reward him with another treat as he catches up.
As you walk forward, continue to give treats to your puppy at the level of your knee or hip.
When he runs in front of you, simply turn in the opposite direction, call him to you, and reward him in place. Then continue. Gradually increase the spacing between treats (from every step to every other step, every third step, and so on).
When your dog is on a leash, he will eventually walk happily by your side. Allow plenty of time for your dog to sniff and "smell the roses" on walks. When they've had their sniffing time, give the cue "Let's Go!" in a happy voice and reward them for returning to position and walking with you.
There are two ways to teach your puppy to "sit."
The first method is referred to as capturing.
Hold some dog food or treats in front of your puppy.
Wait for him to sit, then say "yes" and give him a treat.
Then take a step backwards or sideways to encourage him to stand and wait for him to sit.
Give them another treat as soon as they sit.
After a few repetitions, you can start saying "sit" right as he begins to sit.
The following option is known as luring.
Put yourself in front of your puppy and hold a treat as a lure.
Place the treat directly in front of the pup's nose, then slowly raise it above his head. He'll probably sit while raising his head to nibble on the treat.
When his bottom touches the ground, let him eat the treat.
Repeat with the food lure one or two times, then remove the food and use only your empty hand, but continue to reward the puppy after he sits.
You can start saying "sit" right before you give the hand signal to sit once he understands it.
Never force your puppy into a sitting position; this can be confusing or dangerous.Some dogs may find this confusing or upsetting.
"Down" can be taught in the same way that "sit" can.
You can sit and wait for your dog to fall asleep (beginning in a boring, small room such as a bathroom can help)
Capture the behaviour by rewarding your dog for lying down with a treat.
Give him his release cue to stand back up (and if necessary, encourage him with a lure) before waiting for him to lie down again.
You can start saying "down" right before he lies down after standing up.
A down can also be lured from a sit or stand.
Bring a treat to the dog's nose and slowly lower it to the floor.
To begin, give the treat when the dog's elbows make contact with the floor.
After a few practise sessions, start bringing your empty hand to the floor and giving him the treat AFTER he has fallen asleep.
Begin saying "down" as you move your hand once he can reliably follow your hand signal.
Never use force to put your dog down, as you would when sitting.
Staying in place is a duration behaviour in which a puppy sits until you ask him to get up by giving another cue called the "release word." The goal is to train your dog to sit until the release cue is given, then gradually increase the distance.
To begin, teach the release word. Choose a word to use, such as "OK" or "free."
Stand in a sit or a stand with your puppy, toss a treat on the floor, and say your command as he steps forward to get the treat.
Repeat this a few times until you can say the word first, then toss the treat AFTER he starts moving. This teaches the dog that the release cue indicates that you should move your feet.
Put your dog in a sit, turn and face him, and give him a treat when he understands the release cue and how to sit on cue.
Give him another treat for staying in a sit, then let him go.
Increase the time between treats gradually (it may help to sing the ABCs in your head and work your way up the alphabet).
It's fine if your dog gets up before the release cue. It simply means he isn't ready to sit for that long, so go back to a shorter time.
Once your dog can sit for several seconds, you can start increasing the distance.
Put him in a sit, say "stay," take one step back, then step back to the pup, give him a treat, and say your release word.
Continue to build in steps, making it simple enough for your dog to succeed. Practice facing him as well as walking away with your back turned to him.
You can gradually increase the distance once your dog can stay. This also applies to "sit." The better he learns it, the longer he can sit. The key is to not set unrealistic expectations. Because training goals are accomplished in increments, you may need to slow down and concentrate on one thing at a time. Sessions should be short and effective in order for the training to "stick."
Read more about how to teach your dog to stay.
Keep training sessions brief and entertaining. Each session should conclude on a positive note. If you believe your dog is having difficulty learning or is "stubborn," consider the speed with which you train and the value of your rewards. Is it necessary to slow down and make the steps easier, or does your dog require a larger reward for a more difficult exercise?
The "Basic 5" cues will lay a solid foundation for your puppy's future training.
And who knows, if you and your puppy keep working hard — and having fun — at training, you might one day become obedience champions!
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